French Travels

Returning to PARIS

2009-11-17T13:55:00.000-08:00

Yes, that's right. After only 6 months since returning home from France, we have booked for two weeks in Paris next April.
I turn 60 on April 1 (April Fool's day - I've heard all the jokes before) and Sue decided to take me to Paris rather than have a big party. Sounds good to me.

2009-06-11T12:49:00.000-07:00

Leaping Leons French Fancies has come to an end with our return to Melbourne but if you are interested in following our "Melbourne our Home" blog, go to http://melbourneourhome.blogspot.com/
Not only will it cover Melbourne but also our bayside area where we live. It may cover the regional centres of Victoria with the occasional weekend away.
Generally it will offer an insight to history, food, wine, events and daily living.
Feedback and comparisons with your own living environment would be fun to share.
See you on Melbourne our Home.
Leon and Sue

Coming Home

2009-06-08T04:12:00.000-07:00

As much as we love France, home is home - family, friends and our house. The journey home was an adventure in itself. Packing the night before, we wondered would our luggage meet Emirates weight requirements, had Sue bought too many gifts and what would I need to leave behind to accommodate them.
My beloved steed, the bike would need to be lightened - throw out the chain, some clothing and the many pieces of literature collected from our journey.
Waiting for Paris Shuttle, they were 15 minutes late. Not a problem because we factored in a one hour buffer zone. Over cautious - well maybe! Our flight departure time was delayed by two hours. That’s right two hours, you have to be joking. Where does that put us for our connecting flight in Dubai.
My mantra is, “Don’t stress over what you cannot control”. Buy a magazine, and enjoy over your favourite alcoholic drink.
OK, finally on the plane, even though I thought we were marched onto the municipal crèche. Can’t be too bad, this is the short leg and surely it can’t be worse on the 16 hr leg to OZ.
How wrong can I be. Arrived with 20 minutes to catch our connecting flight to Melbourne, we’re last off the plane and in the last bus being transported to the terminal. The Stewardess leading us (I’m sure she was a marathon runner in a previous life) arrived at the custom check in and the official said “No cannot do” just because he was male and our Stewardess wasn’t or he just had a power complex, so we were then led to an alternative check in with positive results.
Finally on the plane to discover that someone already had our seats, much shuffling of the seats and we are finally ready for the long haul to OZ.
Oh no!! Very unsettled babies and young children all as tired and unhappy as us.
I found the solution to the problem. Whack in the ear phones and crank up the Aussie heavy metal band AC/DC - preferable to several wailing infants.
I actually got several hours sleep.
The plane finally arrived in cold chilly Melbourne with a warm welcome from our two boys, Andrew and Mitchell joined by Mitch’s gorgeous girlfriend, Saskia.
We finally arrived back home and laid our heads on the pillow at 12.30 am Melbourne time after leaving Paris 38 hours previously.
I was up at 6.00 am the following morning - Monday and a holiday for the Queen’s Birthday long weekend to join my cycling friends for a 60k ride with two coffee stops along our usual training road, the cycling Mecca of Melbourne - Beach Road. This is about a 35k un-interrupted road of the most beautiful part of the whole world along Port Phillip Bay where we live. To us it is very similar to the same region it is named after in France, Menton near the border of Italy.

Even though the temperature was probably below double figures, it was a pleasure to be back home amongst familiar faces and scenery. Don’t get me wrong, we love France, the people we have met, the sights we have marvelled at, but we feel so fortunate to have been born here.
We’ll be back again some day but for us home is home.
Attached is one photo only for a special friend we met while in the Loire who showed us some kindness. He once had a Renault 4. I always wanted one but this miniature is all I have.
For those in France, this blog will continue possibly on a weekly basis - it will have a theme on MY MELBOURNE.
Thank you for reading about our indulgences.
Leon and Sue

Our last day in Paris

2009-06-05T09:37:00.000-07:00

It’s a little weird, returning to the areas of our previous visits. In 2006 we stayed in the area of the Luxembourg gardens and in 2008 it was in Saint Germaine. Both are fairly Tourist inundated. Staying this year in the 11th, we have not heard an American accent, which has gotta be a plus in my mind.

As I write this I hear French voices from above our little outdoor garden. Children’s voices and laughter drift in and out while we watch the birds land in our garden looking for a feed. A radio can be heard somewhere in the background with the odd motor scooter whizzing up the street.
To say we have enjoyed our 4 weeks is an understatement. Being with the locals here sheds a different aspect on this trip. I’m not sure if I would call it a holiday as such - living a week at a time you actually meet people. Guided tours are not of for us - Today is Tuesday, it must be Barcelona - no, no, not for us.
OK!!! Get on with it Leon, she says…. Ok, what did we do on our last full day?
On the Metro with the locals to Grande Boulevards to see the covered passageways, one of which was Passage des Panoramas which the 1st street in Paris to have gas lighting in 1817.
I bought a little scale model of a DS Citroen similar to the car I owned in 1975.
From here we took off to Rue St-Andre des Arts where we stayed last year. Very touristy and busy, hordes of people and more Anglais than Francais again.
Lunch at a great little creperie in our old street and then wandered off to let Sue to do shopping. She didn’t buy anything, but I did, she is soooo indecisive.
I needed to see Arenes de Lutece, an amphitheatre built at the end of the 1st century. Restored in 1917, we saw young boys playing soccer within the historic arena.
Oh well - its time to pack the bike and the suit cases and return the great OZ down under.
Goodbye France and hope to see you again sometime.

Attached are just a few pics of the last 2 days in Paris in no particular order.

DRAWING TO THE END

2009-06-04T14:20:00.000-07:00

With only one full day left to our month in France, I’m really not ready yet to come home. Paris has been an interesting experience this time. Living in the 11th which is outside the tourist districts has been an eye opener in many ways.
The 11th is a working class district with warts & all attached to it, yet colourful in many ways. People going to work, shopping and living life. Many having pride in their dress, yet little respect for their streets. Dog turds, cigarette butts and Macca bags litter the back streets.

After dinner tonight we sat outside the restaurant sipping a coffee and a Grand Marnier on Place Leon Blum.
The traffic consisting of bicycles, motor scooters, cars and buses zoomed thru the roundabout in an orderly chaos that has to be seen to be believed. I’ve ridden in this chaos in peak hour traffic and there’s a flow to it that actually seems safe. No less safe than riding in a cycling race with another 40 riders.

After a later than usual start this morning we planned a trip to Montmartre, the home of bohemia in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Home to artists such as Toulouse Lautrec, Salvador Dali and home to eroticism with the Moulin Rouge, the Can Can and ladies of the night.
We walked the streets of Montmartre passing erotic shops, artists selling their wares to finally La Basilique Du Sacre-Coeur at the very top of the hill. The view is extraordinary from this sacred point.

The white stone with the copper statues are quite impressive however even this sacred place of worship is geared to the tourist. Buskers and failed artists vie for your Euro. Strangely none of these artists with sketch pad asked if I wanted my portrait drawn but Ashley, our young and attractive companion was constantly harassed.

A visit to the Salvador Dali museum was something I missed on previous visits and finally on this trip I was not disappointed. I enjoyed not only his sculptures and his paintings but his humour and zest for life that was reflected in his work.

Travelling home on the Metro in the peak period is I guess the same in any large city but having not travelled by public transport at home very much makes me look at it in a different light. You see many sad or bored looking faces, unwilling to make eye contact with their ears plugged into ipods. It almost makes me want to get the whole carriage to do a sing-along of Waltzing Matilda.

I had my last ride on the bike tonight before packing it up to travel home. Its been a great way to integrate with the local scene. I've seen more of rural France and Parisienne life with my bum on the saddle.

Tomorrow will be a shopping day and packing for our flight home. Its been a great experience and gives a different outlook on life - but how fortunate are we to have been born in OZ.

For those who have been reading the blog here in France, I'll finish off with some news of Melbourne, our home over the week that we return.

Thanks to all those that made our trip memorable.

Carol and Mikee and their friends Catherine and Alan, Ken and Walt, Coco in Dijon, Vanessa here in Paris and our good friends Sophie and Leigh. Finally my track cycling friend Michel Briat who made me welcome amongst his circle.

My best day until tomorrow

2009-06-03T13:09:00.000-07:00

What can I say - just another PERFECT Day in Paris. The morning started with a metro (underground) trip from Place Leon Blum to inner Paris. We wanted to wander the Marais and St Paul districts to relive some memories of our last trip. We also had Ashley with us to share the walk. We did however start with a tour of the Paris opera House opened in 1875.
The opulence of the place is mind boggling with ceiling frescos, gold statuesque chandeliers, and velvet covered seating. Although the auditorium was closed to the public, I managed to sneak up some spiral staircases high in the back stalls and grab a photo.

The Theatre National de L’Opera was the scene for Phantom of the Opera and one can imagine some of the scenes from the stage show after walking thru this magnificent building.
Across the road is Galleries Lafayette where they have all the designer labels although my designs were on the fabulous lunch they offer in their cafeteria. Reminiscent of the Myer Cafeteria, this one offers excellent meals at reasonable prices. I had grilled salmon, washed down with a carafe of Rose and Limencello and café/mocca ice cream - yummmmmmm.
After lunch it was up to the open top floor to survey the Paris skyline. All the famous landmarks are on view from this rooftop area. Not a cloud in the sky and visibility was as far as the eye could see.
The Eiffel Tower, Arc d’Triumph, Sacre Coeur Basilique all could be seen with the Opera house across the road.
After sunning ourselves on the rooftop, it was time
to move off to our favourite spot, the Marais, St
Paul which is a medieval centre within Paris. Best of all I met a bike shop owner with track bikes. He had been to OZ in Melbourne so we had a good talk until Sue found me and dragged me out to continue our walk.
Hotel Sens was the next stop, a favourite building of mine and one of the earliest existing places of royalty in Paris

Last on the walking tour was Place des Vosges, a favourite for Sue. This leafy square is an oasis of peace and tranquillity. With the sun beating down, the heavily planted and manicured trees offer a cool and shady place to view the activities of the locals. One of the apartments surrounding the square was the last place Jim Morrison of the Doors drew his last breath after a drug overdose.

With perfect weather, I had an opportunity to meet my friend Leigh for an afternoon ride in the parklands. Things got a bit competitive and the heart rate monitor told me to behave but it was great to enjoy dicing with the other French cyclists. After leaving the circuit, we took a deviation to the nearby velodrome to see if there was anything happening. This was the famous Jacques Anquetil velodrome named after the 5 times Tour de France winner. Eddy Merckx, another 5 times winner achieved one of his victories here also.
On arriving we saw many track cyclists warming up and after awhile one of them greeted me warmly.
It was Michel Briat who had raced the last two years in the World Masters Track Championships in Sydney that actually recognised me.
I was invited to ride around the Velodrome with him and was introduced to his many friends.
In appreciation, I gave him my Aussie cycling cap.

What a great day it has been.

Pics:

1 to 5 of the Opera House

6 - Ash sitting on the rooftop of Galleries Lafayette

7 to 9 - Place des Vosges

10 - Michel Briat and Leaping Leon

A Magic Day in Paris

2009-06-02T15:28:00.000-07:00

Cold and chilly Melbourne is only another four days away. We have been spoilt with our stay in Paris to date with days in the mid to high 20s and we are yet to eat a meal indoors. This superb apartment has an outdoor garden where we eat. Tonight is still in the low 20s at 11.00 pm. I just walked Ashley, my son’s girlfriend home while wheeling my bike to ride home afterwards. I don’t believe this city with its attitude towards cyclists - so different to home. It truly is a cycling city.
But more of that later.
The previous day started with a walk thru the Du Pere Lachaise Cemetiere not far from our apartment. We were told by a very proud Frenchman who accosted us and took us on a small walk that this cemetery was actually larger than Monaco, and it seemed so by the amount of times we walked up and down and between graves, looking for famous people (and got lost).
Oscar Wilde’s tombstone was the most bizarre of all. Sculptured in an art deco style, it has hundreds of lipstick kisses on it by over enthusiastic fans. There are grave sites with wonderful sculptures that would take pride of place in any museum and there are grave sites long forgotten, yet require a moment in time to gaze upon.
Being a public holiday in France, my cycling friend Leigh took me to the Bois de Vincennes parklands to do a few laps (or more) and meet other cyclist who train there. A little tired from the 60K ride, I hopped in the shower then had a kip before getting ready to meet up with Leigh and Sophie for drinks and dinner.
We love our little garden here but to experience their sixth floor apartment not far from our place was a privilege.
A glass of wine and several French cheeses while viewing the Paris skyline, Eiffel Tower, etc in the late afternoon sun will be remembered for many long years.
Tomorrow we are off to the Paris Opera House, and the Marais district.

2009-06-01T07:44:00.000-07:00

1st Full Day in Paris
This is our third visit to France and previously we have taken a few days in Paris to get over jet lag and then after travelling thru France, we take a week in Paris before returning home. We love the atmosphere of Paris and after spending so much time here it is becoming familiar - although we still get lost, it is all part of the adventure.
Our morning started with a visit to the market down on Boulevard Richard Lenoir near Place De La Bastille where we met a fellow Bayside Bandido cycling mate Marcus three years ago. Sue thought this was one of the better markets she has shopped at over out time in France. Our favourite was purchased - breast of Canard (Duck) along with white asparagus and some various smelly fromages. Yum, yum….
After shopping I threw on the lycra for a death defying ride in Paris to the Bois de Vincennes, a forest and parkland for the citizens of Paris to enjoy. On this Sunday they were out in their 1000s, enjoying a balmy spring day. Families on bikes, roller skates, horses or just walking. You can tell its spring with many young couples walking hand in hand.
The Park has a chateau, zoo, sports stadium, velodrome and hippodrome (horse racing course) as well as many soccer grounds with a huge forest within. On my ride a squirrel ran across my path and up into a tree - how good is that?
As per normal, I lost my way home and decided to ask advise from the local gendarmes who happened to be beside me on the road. So, in my usual suave manner, I said, “ G’day, can ya tell me which way to Bastille”. Strangely, they were not amused by my antics but never the less they did point me in the right direction (without a smile).
At the next set of lights, they were beside me again, and I said “ This way mate?”. With a nod and a stern look, he agreed. So I flicked him a thumbs up and took off home. The rural police have so much more humour than their Paris equivalents.
We made contact with my Son’s girlfriend Ashley and enjoyed a few wines and nibbles before she returned to her backpacker’s hotel for a well earned sleep after her long travel.

Tomorrow we plan to visit the grave sites of Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Maria Callas, Chopin, Stephane Grappelli, Modigliani, Edith Piaf, Rossini and of course, Doors lead singer Jim Morrison at the Cemetiere Du Pere Lachaise which is within walking distance from our apartment.

Ahhh, gay paree. We are here

2009-06-01T06:34:00.000-07:00

Panic stations on Sue’s part. Time to leave the hotel in Lyon, organise a taxi, get to the station to catch the TGV. We had a morning expresso at the first Bistro when we arrived in Lyon and the same woman we met on our arrival was there. She and her husband own the bistro. When we arrived two days ago my elbow bleed over her table and she gave me a band aid. I returned with the same band aid attached to my elbow and said it would return to OZ with me. We all laughed. We exchanged email addresses and parted company. Our trip has been full of laughter and meeting noyce people.
Finally on the TGV to Paris and was bemused by a real life elderly Barbie Doll woman who decided to paint her finger nails (horrible smell) while reading gossip magazines. Yes I know, I’m a bitch….
Finally arrived at Gare de Lyon and started to recognise those old familiar sights from our previous three trips.
As I write this, I am sipping a coffee at our ground floor apartment with a relaxing courtyard garden. We were greeted by Vanessa, our neighbour. We are now settled and looking forward to our last week in France with excitement and a little sadness that we are drawing close to the end of our journey.

Our apartment is in the 11th Arrondisement, just up from Boulevard Voltaire on Place Leon Blum.

More news tomorrow - an early morning ride and then off to market, make contact with our friends Sophie and Leigh in Paris and meet our son, Andrew's girlfriend Ashley who arrives tomorrow.

Pics: 1 & 2 - Our apartment garden courtyard - very important for Aussies.
3 - Place Leon Blum

Lyon, Hmmmm! I’m not quite sure!

2009-05-29T11:51:00.000-07:00

With only 2 two days in such a big city, its difficult to form an opinion with so many conflicting images.
Some beautiful - some very sad. I guess it’s the same in most large cities as opposed to the more regional and rural areas of France we enjoy so much and yet Lyon has given us some special moments such as today at lunch, but more about that later.
After catching the bus and then the funiculaire (the cable carriage) to the highest point of Lyon, we marvelled at the two Gallo-Roman theatres and the never ending view of the city sprawled below. The ancient amphitheatres were being set-up for Lyon’s festival of arts. Amongst the artists are names such as David Byrne (ex talking heads & Marianne Faithful).
With both the Saone and the Rhone winding below my viewpoint, how could you not marvel at the city’s beauty, yet close-up and personal it loses some its lustre.
After descending back down and into the old Lyon you find some of the homeless sleeping in bus stops, church steps and down narrow alleyways. In sections of the city, the gutters have litter of many days and the smokers of Lyon shed cigarette butts without thought. I saw one young female shop assistant having a cigarette outside her shop and just flick it on the pavement, still lit and walked straight back into the shop without a thought of littering her great city.
And yet, we met others who were very proud of their city and its history, willing to offer advice on the best attractions and places to eat. Others on seeing us confused with the city map in hand would ask if we needed assistance.
Today we stumbled on a perfect Lyonnais Bouchon bistro and were seated beside an elderly well dressed French couple. They warmly welcomed us to their table and with his limited English and Sue’s limited French, we entered conversation that shared a little of each others lives in different parts of the world.
On the other side of us were four people from the USA who joined in conversation and we discovered that they ate at the same restaurant as us in Bourg-en-Bresse the previous night. Incidentally, the food was great
but the conversation with “Pierre and Andrea” at the table will be long remembered.

Tomorrow late afternoon, we catch the TGV to Paris where we can unwind for a full week. I get to ride the bike, Sue gets to shop and cook: oops, don’t take that the wrong way. If you have been reading the blog, by now you know that cooking is Sue’s passion and quite frankly, better than some of the restaurants I’ve eaten in at home.

Autun to Bourg-en-Bresse, Vienne and Lyon.

2009-05-28T13:27:00.000-07:00

There are times you wonder why you put a city or village on your list and not others along the way. The trip from Autun to Bourg-en-Bresse opened our eyes to the beautiful village of Cluny for a stop-over lunch break. The village had a really great feel about it. The 910 AD Abbey remains was its main feature and its streets are a delight to wander through.
Leaving Cluny, we travelled onto B-en-B via Macon which to us had no redeeming features but having tried their white wine recently I will now look up a bottle or two back home.
We probably should have stopped at Autun for a few hours and had two night in B-en-B where we had a great dinner of Frogs Legs (my 1st time) and the local famous chicken of the district.
Next overnight stop was Vienne on the river Rhone. Again we picked a village to break the drive and stumbled on the medieval hilltop village of Perouges. With a population of 900, the village has been the scene of several movies such as the three Musketeers and Monsieur Vincent. The streets are all paved from round river rocks and uncomfortable to walk on yet you still see fashion conscious women in high heels.
Only photos can describe the serenity of the village - it really was a special highlight of the day with our overnight stop, Vienne a very close second.
To us Vienne was special and would have been worth more than overnight stay. The locals seem to have a real pride in their special city with clean streets, leafy squares and a feeling of calmness. The hosts at our hotel were so helpful in recommending what sights to see and place to eat.
Our meal that night was at La Provence, a family owned restaurant hidden down a laneway. So helpful was our waitress, the daughter of the mother/father owners that Sue invited her to stay with us if/when she comes to Australia. They even swapped email addresses.
Vienne’s main features are its Roman remains which are beautifully presented.

The ancient foundations have been partly preserved as a children’s playground.
We left Vienne with the feeling that we needed to return one day for a longer stay. (a bit like Chinon in the Loire).
Our drive to Lyon would be our last drive before handing back Cyril Citroen. The 1.4L diesel has been a great little car and for those like statistics, it returned 4.7L/100k over 2800 kms.
The most stressful part of the journey to date was to come.
Find the drop off point for the car, catch a bus to the airport, catch another bus to Lyon and find our hotel while carrying a back pack, two suitcases and a bike bag.
Well here we are finally in Lyon after dinner and

looking forward to the sites this second biggest city after Paris can offer.

Dijon to Autun

2009-05-27T22:46:00.000-07:00

Today was basically a transitional day taking in Beaune for a lunch time stop with an overnight stay in Autun.
The highlight of Beaune was the visit to the Hotel-Dieu, a hospital for the poor and sick, but much like a palace. Built in 1443, it is perfectly preserved and a great feature of the city. From the middle ages up to the late 20th century the Hospice had been in continual use. Taking on the title of “Palace of the Poor” the building housed some masterpieces of paintings and tapestries from the 15th and 16th centuries.

Beaune was hosting a weekend Australia festival of some kind next month and I've attached a poster advertising the event. There's even a character riding a bike that looks very much like Crocodile Dundee. Make what you want of it all but we couldn't stay to find out.
After a superb pizza lunch, we waddled off to the car for a drive to our overnight stay at Autun. Being only under 50k away, we thought we would wander the back roads and villages along the way.
The rolling hills are just covered in vines and produces some of Burgundy’s best wines.
We finally arrived with Tommy, our GPS (Tom Tom) having a minor breakdown looking for our hotel. Giving up on him, we spied two local Police on a round-a-bout and rather than proceeding thru, I drove up on the pavement and Sue wound down the window and said “je suis perdue monsieur” at which he good heartedly laughed and offered directions.
Autun has some historic points of interest, being the remains of their Roman theatre. It held 20.000 people during the 1st century AD and yet the town’s population is just that now. Founded in the late 1st century BC it must have been huge. Part of the roman walls still exist today however on our visit the town was less than lively. It maybe something to do with the unusual heat wave that this region of France is having. The last two days have been in the high 30s and the little Citroen Air-con is getting a good workout.
Again this part of the country is perfect for cycling with rolling hills, quiet back roads and plenty of villages for a stop over.

Our Last Day in Dijon

2009-05-24T03:08:00.001-07:00

Sue and I have a friend in Melbourne who is a Foodie just like Sue. This photo is for Tony Milton. Tony took up cycling on his brother's Perkins bike which he still rides today. The bike was built by a chap who was an Australian champion and today both a friend and mentor of mine. Daryl Perkins is the father of Shane Perkins, a future elite world champion in my opinion.

Tony's greatness stems from his time as a chef in Paris and being all round nice guy. (He's also a bit round but after all he is a foodie).

The last home cooked Supper in Dijon was seared scallops with an orange aioli, crispy proscuitto and tomato, eshallot and avocado salsa. She's not bad for a home cook is she Tony?

I thought I'd just post a few photos of our time in Dijon as we move on in the morning for three days of meandering down to Lyon and returning the Citroen C3.

A special mention goes to our Hostess, Coco who couldn't have made our stay in Dijon more comfortable. The apartment is well stocked and beautifully presented, all this and on the doorstep of all the Dijon attractions. She mentioned that a car was not necessary but a bike sure comes in handy.

The photos:

1. our meal.
2. a Brocante store and an old Citroen H-van

3. The canal cycle paths at one of the locks.
4. Tomb of one of the great Dukes of Burgundy in the Musee de Beaux Arts.
5. Sculptures and carvings that attracted my attention in the Musee.
6. Finally our apartment from Coco's website www.myhomeindijon.com

I'll miss Dijon as I've become acquainted with its layout and somewhere hidden is a network of cyclists that I was unable to locate, but they were lurking there somewhere.

Looking forward to reaching Paris where I can ride with my friend Leigh and meet some local riders.

Talk soon.

Cycling by the Dijon Canal

2009-05-23T04:32:00.000-07:00

That's me with my Fyxomotosis musette, team CSC cap and bagette.

After last night's superb meal, I thought that an early morning ride was in order to shed the excess calories. Those who know me might say I'm a little obsessive about my cycling - all things in life are relative. My father, my mother and my brother rode bikes, my many friends ride bikes. I think all of France must ride bikes so I can't possibly be obsessive.

I forgot to take the camera this morning and missed out on a lot of great shots. My ride took me out of the Centre Ville, looking for the Dijon Canal and the lake within the parklands for a car free ride. I didn't realise that there was a network of bike paths within the parklands and all along the canal. The surroundings at that time of morning are so relaxing. Being spring the lake and the canal are full of ducks and geese with their young. Barges are moored along the canal and one was flying the Aussie flag - had it been on the side I was riding, I would have given them a G'day.

This would be the perfect spot for a cycling holiday (but aren't they all in France) with its network of cycling routes. One even takes you back to Auxerre where we were last week (seems ages ago). After breakfast and a stroll into the square for coffee in the mid-morning sun, we hit the Navette bus which is free and takes you on a circuit of central Dijon, stopping at the main points of interest. Having seen a few already, we stopped at Dijon's Notre Dame. I took a few pics of the gargoyles. I have a fascination for gargoyles.

Another sit down at an outside cafe for a glass of Rose, "but its only 11.30 am" Sue said. When in France!!!! There was a local on the next table having a beer when we arrived.

Then off to shopping. Its true about Blokes and Sheilas when it comes to shopping. We just do it.

I said to Sue I wanted to buy some jeans the same as I purchased from Celio (a bit like Just Jeans) in Avignon last year. They had a shop in Dijon. In, try on, pay and out. 15 mins at the most.

Sue wandered in and out of shops looking for gifts without success.
Galleries Layfayette, Mustard shops, clothes shops, home shops and shoe shops were all explore in great detail.
"Oh well" she said, "there's always Lyon and then Paris".

Off to the Musee of Beaux Arts this afternoon for some Kulcha.............

Charles Aznavour is 85

2009-05-22T13:03:00.000-07:00

Just a quick blog before I go to bed....

For those who have a little maturity in their lives, I'm sure you would be aware of Charles Aznavour. My first three vinyl LPs were presented to me by my mother and older brother. Mum introduced me to Charles and Sammy Davis Jr, my brother gave me Bill Haley and the Comets for my first record player.

Tonight after dinner, Sue are watching on France 1, Aznavours 85th birthday celebration with popular French artists and American Liza Minelli (another favourite of mine).

However I did want to share dinner with you tonight.

Duck breast, Asparagus, red capsicum and potatoes roasted in the duck fat with a local Burgundy Pinot. Unbelievable.

Why go out for dinner?

A great way to end the day - tomorrow an early morning ride to eat up the calories and maybe an extra cholesterol tablet.

A Day in Dole

2009-05-22T07:31:00.000-07:00

The heavens opened up last night with torrential rain, tremendously loud thunder and lightning that lit up the apartment. For two Victorians it was a pleasure to see and hear, hopefully we are getting something similar at home. CNN here has reported the floods in both Queensland and NSW - are we getting any in Vic?

Fortunately we were eating in last night after Sue had prepared chicken breast stuffed with comte cheese and tarragon mustard, wrapped in jambon cru (proscuitto) and pan fried with a little white wine sauce. Wish I'd taken a photo before I ate it!!!!!!!

Tonight's meal is Duck breast with a bitter orange sauce, asparagus and sauteed baby potatoes, Yum!!! How I love bringing the Cook with me to France (shhhh, don't tell the wife I said that - just some Aussie humour). Forgot, apricot tart for desert. I make coffee and then wash up.

Anyway the day started at the market to buy tonight's ingredients before returning to my poor lonely car for a drive to the town of Dole in the Jura region about 60 out from Dijon and only 150k from the Swiss border. With a population of close to 30,000 it really is a very pretty "Centre Ville" meaning the historic centre of the village. With the Rhone to Rhine canal passing at the bottom of it's steep and winding narrow streets above we viewed the house where Louis Pasteur was born in 1822. The village had its origin in the 12th Century when a fortress was built to watch over the river Doubs. I'm sure in the space of only 3 hours we miss out on a lot but how lucky are we to sit in the sunshine and soak up the ambiance of a village of this age, 1000s of kms from home.

With only two days left in Dijon it will be a little sad to leave as we have only just touched on its many wonders.

Our hostess Coco has recommended many things of interest and it will be difficult to fit everything in. I must say that the people we meet are fantastic ambassadors for their country.

We were lost, looking at our map of Dijon when a local woman asked if she could help with directions. Hopefully we do the same at home, I know I will in future.

Quiet day in Dijon

2009-05-21T04:22:00.000-07:00

A quiet day in Dijon due to a holiday in France today. Went for a ride at 7.00 am this morning and met up with a group of around 100 Cyclists who were meeting up at the Dijon Velodrome. Spoke to a local who had excellent english and explained that it was a touring ride. This form of cycling is a little like the popular rides such as round the bay and the recent Marysville ride for the bushfire relief fund.
The photo of the Dijon is for my Trackie mate from Oz, Mike Goldie whose blog keeps me informed of local cycling.

The fellow I met told me that the future of the Dijon velodrome is in doubt and may be demolished soon.

The picture of the bikes lined up is a similar project to the rental bikes in Paris. Mainly for locals, you can pick up a bike and then deposit it at another location during the day. Note that the bikes have no chain or drive wheels, its all by way of internal drive. By the way, I'm amazed at the courtesy shown by the local drivers to cyclists here, in fact its all over most of France that I have ridden in.

Later in the morning Sue and I went to breakfast at a local cafe before taking the Owl walk around Dijon.

The photo of the baby playing the cello is in our street, Rue de Bon enfants - street of the good little children (I think).

The Owl walk passed by Dijon's most historic buildings and landmarks. We did take a detour into the local "Monoprix" for some lunch-time ingredients and some more local wine. My friend Clive who is coming to France for Le Tour is concerned there will be no wine left in France after we return... Be very concerned Clive.

Speaking of friends, several of my Bayside Bandido riders are currently in Italy for the Giro. Go Michael Wilson, an Aussie in 3rd place so far.

The more I see of Dijon, the more I warm to it. Our hostess, Coco is wonderful and I suggest you look at her website on my blog. This apartment is perfect.

Well, time for an afternoon walk to wear off the lunch-time Rose. Or maybe not, the rain has just started. Maybe the museums are the choice this afternoon.

A day in rural Dijon

2009-05-20T10:32:00.000-07:00

We decided that with the temp in the mid-20s, a drive in the surrounding rural district of Dijon would be in order. Now being Ozzies, that means up to 200 kms for the day. Bit like Bendigo and back maybe but on winding narrow roads.
The underlating terrain is just covered in green and gold, just like you see on the SBS coverage of Le Tour.

Our car had been parked about a kilometre away from the apartment and the Citroen C3 was waiting for a fun day of speading its wings. We've done 1800 kms so far and the 1.3L diesel is well and truly run in. It loves climbing.

First stop was Alise-Ste-Reine to see the ruins of a Gallo-Roman town unearthed in the mid 19th century. The town was the site of Caesar's defeat of the Gaulish Chieftain, Vercingetorix in 52bc. Weird because the street where my car was parked was named after him. After viewing the ruins we took off for lunch at Semur-en-Auxois where we learned two things.

1. Eat where the workers in HiVis clothing have lunch for a hearty and economical meal.
2. Don't sit on the outside tables next to the road - while having lunch, a delivery truck swiped a table on the street cafe.
After lunch we took off to the Abbaye de Fontenay - so peaceful and beautifully restored. I'll let the pictures tell the story.

Tommy, my GPS got us back home and we found a parking spot closer to our apartment this time and being a public holiday tomorrow cost 2 euro for 2 days.

Off to the Jazz Festival now just down the street - we can hear it from our open apartment window.

Talk soon.

Day 2 in Dijon

2009-05-19T10:30:00.000-07:00

Our first full day Dijon and we took off to the local market. It's huge!!!!!

Came home with duck thighs, baby potatoes, asparages and some local cheeses and wines for tonight's dinner.

After shopping and an expresso, I donned the lycra for a ride to discover the Dijon Velodrome. Getting there alone is like racing a track race with F-graders. Cars, buses, other cyclists and motor bikes everywhere, but it all seems to happen with a calmness I have never experienced in Melbourne. I've had bogans in utes throw cans and assorted food at me on Beach Rd but here, drivers treat you with respect like you are actually part of the overall traffic.

Mind you, I do use my peripheral vision constantly.

The Dijon Velodrome is a marvelous structure if you just imagine what it was like 1 or 2 decades ago. The honour board showing the past records up to 2003 are impressive. I chucked the bike over the fence to ride a few laps but there is broken glass in one spot that stopped my progress.

Sue and I took the time to sit in the mid arvo and have a couple of relaxing drinks in the 1/2 circle "square" facing the Palais des Ducs while little children chased pigeons feeding.

The city is quite vibrant at this time of day and the teenagers are getting out of classes.

If Paris is the city of love, Dijon is the city of young lust as you see many students entwined on street corners.

In Dijon

2009-05-18T13:38:00.000-07:00

Sitting in our apartment in Dijon and reading Martin Dugard’s book, “Chasing Lance” has some significance with today’s drive to Dijon. Those who have no interest in cycling will need to allow me some indulgence. Leaving Auxerre, I said to Sue that there was a velodrome here. Our visit to France could be sub-titled “Chasing Velodromes” but let’s keep that our little secret.
I found the velodrome and had Sue take a photo of me wearing the Bandido Green Jersey. This is a very illustrious garment, revered by all Bandido cyclists. (Wanker)…..
The next stop was the wine growing village of Chablis. The sun was shining, our mood was buoyant and the village of Chablis glistened with the sun bouncing off the rolling hills littered with vines as far as the eye could see.
After a quick coffee, we decided that some wine tasting was in order, despite it being only 10.30 am.
Two bottles of Chablis Premier Cru were purchased for our first night in Dijon.

We decided to move on to a lovely little village on our itinerary for lunch to see an eternal bubbling spring that the medieval inhabitant’s thought was divine hence its name, Font Dionne. Others thought it was the entrance to hell, some thought it contained a snake that it's looks could kill. It was worth the visit.
To me the magical part of Tonnerre was the fact that Le Tour de France will also pass by this village.
We finally arrived in Dijon at 3pm after a little difficulty negotiating the one way streets and have a little altercation with our GPS, “Tommy”.
We finally meet our lovely hostess, Coco who couldn’t do enough to make us welcome, from baking cake for our arrival to having the apartment fully supplied with all the necessities required to make a meal after a long drive.
We are looking forward to hiding the suitcases and having clothes in a wardrobe for the next seven days.

Off to Dijon via Sancerre and Auxerre

2009-05-18T13:23:00.000-07:00

Leaving Thenay we took a detour to Valensay for me to see a car museum and for Sue, the Chateau. After seeing so many chateaux, I was looking forward to some boy stuff.
To say I was impressed was an understatement. The museum followed the history of the great French Marques thru their long histories, many now no longer in production. Those that still exist today, Peugeot, Citroen and Renault are well represented. Not only were the automobiles displayed, but antique bicycles, posters and all kinds of memorabilia. After an hour or more it was time to move on for lunch.
We found a village along the way called Vatan. To our surprise, it is a village that this year’s Tour de France will begin a stage on July 15. A hand painted poster hung from the wall of the café. This year’s Tour will now have a special significance for us.
Sancerre is famous for its Vin Blanc and so we sat at a café on the banks of the Loire near our hotel in Saint Satur to sip a drop before heading into the hilltop medieval village of Sancerre for a further sample. Before returning to our hotel we purchased two bottles of this wine to take on to Dijon (if it lasts that long).
The following morning we drove back the hill to the village for a Brocante (Flea Market) selling assorted second hand goods and junk. Nothing worth taking home luckily although Sue had her eye on the copper bed-warmers.
Our stop this night was Auxerre in Burgundy. Being Sunday the town was fairly quiet with very few shops and eating places open, even the Tourism office was closed - all a bit like Adelaide really!!!!!!
(only jokin’ - I really like Adelaide).

Just got back from dinner but more about that soon. Sue just put on the telly. Oceans 11 with George Clooney - Sue says - George Clooney speaking French, how good is that!!!!!
OK, back to dinner. My favourite “les oeffs meurette” poached eggs in red wine sauce for entrée, and then Coq au vin for mains washed down with a great Auxerre Burgundy. I’ll need some kms in Dijon to get back in trim.
Checked emails today and see my good friends, the Egers and Nicos have left for Italy with more of my cycling friends for the Giro (tour of Italy for non-bikies). Also our other good friends, Di and Bernie have set sail in their yacht to Vanuatu.
All a part of my Bayside Bandido circle of friends. Doesn’t anyone stay at home these days………
Tomorrow is Dijon and a chance to get the legs rolling once again.

Chambord and Cheverny Chateaux

2009-05-18T13:16:00.000-07:00

The must do Chateaux
Both Chambord & Cheverny were missed on our trip last year and so Sue decided they needed to be on our “must do” list. This was our last day in the Loire before moving off to Burgundy and so we made a day of it.
Chambord defies comprehension. It hurts the head to absorb its magnificence. Built by King Francois 1, the grounds including the hunting forest cover an area the size of Paris. A feature of the Chateau is the double helix staircase, supposedly designed by Leonardo da Vinci. People going up the staircase will not meet people descending. The Salamander appears all over the chateau as this was the chosen emblem of the King.
Before nicking off to Cheverny, we decided lunch was in order and we found a restaurant in a neighbouring village rather than eating with all those other tourists. Smart move - lunch was superb!!!!
Poached eggs in a red wine sauce for an entrée, followed by grilled Salmon, finishing off with cheeses and coffee. The meal was enjoyed with a local Cheverny rouge. Yes, I wonder what the common people are doing now…..No I don’t really!!!!
Off to Cheverny - A mere gatehouse compared to Chambord but special in that the descendants of the original owners (the Herault Family) still own the property and only vacated the chateau in 1985. It is now a magnificent museum showing how the ultra-wealthy lived their life.
Most people buying souvenirs were quite happy with key-rings, fridge magnets and assorted trinkets. Not Sue - a $350 leather and suede hand bag was more to her liking. Sorry Kev and Wayne, she really was going to spend that $900 in OZ.
Home to pack and clean the villa and say goodbye to the Loire tomorrow.

Time in the local Village

2009-05-18T11:56:00.001-07:00

Decided we should explore our own village and the larger neighbouring village of Pontlevoy today.
Pontlevoy, we were familiar with due to a book that I purchased in Melbourne early in the year. It just happened be on sale in Borders, Camberwell.
It had photographs from the early 1900s so it was interesting to discover the village in the skin. They call the village a “Museum of the streets” because photographs from the book are reproduced on the facades of the buildings showing what they looked like over 100 years ago. After a coffee in the local Café de Sports we walked the streets to the famous Abbey of Pontlvoy. It has a history that dates back to mid 800 AD.
The Abbey was founded by the French Knight Gueldin de Chaumont (970-1045). The 100 year war, War of religion, and WWII had caused varying degrees of damage but to walk thru the Abbey and the surrounding grounds, give one a moment to pause on the incredible history of the place.
Back to our village of Thenay to try out the local café for lunch. We seemed to look like the only customers that they might have until the roadside workers, local farmers and even the suits and ties arrived to where most tables were full. And no wonder when for 12 euro we had a salad buffet, bread, duck, cheese, desert and a small jug of the local wine, finished of with coffee.
Our hosts, Carol and Michael invited us over to their place for dinner which is about 30 minutes away.
A good night was had by all with several bottles of the local Gamay and Cabernet being consumed. Seeing the sights is the reason for travelling to the Loire Valley but meeting the people is the big bonus. Our hosts have relatives in Australia and should they return, we have been told we must return to look after their cats while we are away.

A really good day in the Loire

2009-05-16T14:12:00.000-07:00

Well, no!! I didn’t get out for a ride in the morning. After a bottle of Vouvray bubbly and a bottle of Samur red, my wake up was a little slow this morning. We had planned on getting to the Loches market which was about 50 km down the road before 10.00 am. Along the way we made a couple of stops to take pics. Stop Leon, there’s another Chateau.
Finally at Loches and parking was at a premium - finally found a spot but the car was facing in the opposite direction, that’s OK, the French are fairly relaxed about that sort of thing.
Wandered thru the market when Sue spotted our mushroom friends - well we were like long lost friends, hugs, cheek kisses, etc. Wonder where we will meet next?
Sue bought a pressie of a beautiful pot of thyme, to give to Ken and Walt, who write a blog that Sue follows , and who had invited us for drinks that late afternoon.
Then off to Montresor, one of the “most beautiful villages” of France. We were greeted by the gate keeper of the chateau who gave us the tour instructions and sent us on our way. His favourite Aussie movie is Croc Dundee. Surprised he didn’t say G’day Mate!!!
This is a smaller chateau but more “real” to me. It had a real lived in feeling and we seemed to be alone in
this “home” giving us the feeling of absorbing what it may have been like to be living in the building.
In one of the rooms there was a portrait of an ancestor from the past and I said to Sue, “He looks like the gatekeeper”. Sure nuff, he was and the family still live on the property. Reminded me of our visit to Toulouse Lautrec’s family Chateau outside Albi.
Arrived home in time for me to throw on the lycra for a quick 1 hour ride. It really is a great thing to ride thru little French wine-growing villages and flashing a wave to the locals while dressed up like a pro-racer. Yes, I know…..What a wanker!!!!!

The real highlight of the day was meeting Ken and Walt whom Sue had been reading their blogs for the last 2 years.
They were a delight to meet and their life in the Loire is something to envy. Their hospitality was generous, starting with a very local white wine. So local that the vineyard was over the back fence. A guided tour thru their back yard of fruit trees and vegie gardens with their dog, Callie, ball in mouth following was an interlude before starting another bottle of local white.
Thanks to you both for a memorable experience.

Return to Chinon and to see Richelieu & Azay

2009-05-16T14:02:00.000-07:00

This was our Day 5 and it already seems ages we left Melbourne.
Thunderstorms last night and an early start so no ride this morning, maybe this arvo. Off to see Richelieu, “the perfect city”, home of Cardinal Richelieu who created it during the 17th century. The grid designed city is undergoing restoration and in a decade will be something to marvel upon. Today one can just imagine life in the city back then. A very large square is the central attraction with several smaller treed squares offering cafes are relaxing to watch the local scene.
Our next stop was Chinon where Joan of Arc convinced the future King of France to give her an army to fight the English and reclaim their land. We stayed here last year and went to visit our hosts, Helene and Jean-Michael. Helene welcomed us with open arms and even remembered our names on seeing us.
On our previous visit to the Loire we got lost looking for the Chateau of Azay Rideau, so we promised ourselves to find it this time. It was worth the visit. As we arrived Sue noticed a group of people pointing and shouting in our direction, it was “the mushroom” people. They tried to offer their hand held tour radios to us but it was only in French.
The Chateau is built on a small island of thr Cher river, its refection appears in the waters that surround it. After a relaxing beer, we returned to Thenay by the rivers of the Loire and the Cher to a bottle of the local Vouvray champagne and then a Samur Cabernet……Ahhh, life is good. I’ll go for a ride in the morning.

Finally get to ride the bike

2009-05-16T13:30:00.000-07:00

The day started with a 6.30 am ride. The countryside was covered in a thick fog lying across the fields of vines. With visibility down to about 100 metres in places it was difficult to make out the terrain. It seems that there is a village every 6 to 10k apart and at that time of the morning the streets are deserted.
Taking just the names of the villages for the morning circuit was a mistake as I got lost and needed to navigate by my in-built human GPS system. I should be a homing pigeon in the next life. Including time to replace a punctured tube, I arrived back home on schedule for a day of sight-seeing with Sue.

Decided to take her on the same course I rode to show some sights I discovered in the late morning before going off to the market in Montrichard in the arvo and then to the caves at Bourre.

The caves today are used to grow mushrooms but this underground cave system of 180 kms of passage ways was used to excavate the white stone to build the many châteaux in the region during the 15th and 16th centuries. We thought that we were about to be the only people for the tour until a group of several French couples turned up. Possibly on an end of season petanque tour. Anyway they had obviously come straight from lunch judging by their gregarious behaviour. They were both loud and happy but friendly. As the tour went on we started conversing in Franglais mixed with sign language. This was not the last we would see of these people whom Sue called “the mushroom” people. By the way, we did understand that one of the men was a chauffeur for some French tennis player who lives in Spain these days.

At the end of the last section of the caves was an incredible masterpiece of sculpturing from the walls of the rock to create an underground village. Started a decade ago, it is an ongoing project.

Later in the arvo, our hosts, Michael and Carol - expat Brits brought around a basket of their home grown lettuce, radish and spinach. They have invited us for dinner later in the week with their friends Alan and Catherine from the UK.

Looking forward to it coz they sound like really good fun.

Our week in the Loire

2009-05-16T13:15:00.000-07:00

Amboise - day 3
We decided to take a drive to the Chateau du Luce’, the home of Leonardo da Vinci for the last few years of his life by invitation from King Francois 1 in 1516. The Chateau is decorated as Leonardo would have known it as it retained many items of the original furniture. The vast gardens are designed as a tribute to Leonardo’s genius depicting many of his inventions reproduced within the gardens and forest. All made by IBM, worth the visit for anyone going to the Loire.

Amboise also runs a market Sunday mornings and we arrived early to take in the atmosphere. The typical rural French characters appeared with woven baskets over the arm to buy their produce for the week. All manner of vegetables, fruit and meats.

We bought a rabbit for dinner.
As we left, the heavens again opened up so there goes another day for a ride. Didn’t want to get the white bike shoes dirty!!!!
Gotta go now and help Sue with the rabbit. Well she cooks and I pour the wine. Blanc or rouge dear????

Back on line - day 2

2009-05-16T12:46:00.000-07:00

Chantilly - day 2
Ville Princiere
Capitale du Cheval
Leaving Senlis we drove to Chantilly - the home of horse racing in France and the to the vast property of Domaine de Chantilly. The grandeur of the chateau and in particular the stables are mind boggling. Last owned by the Duke of Aumale, son of King Louis-Philippe, he believed he would be reincarnated as a horse so he made the vast stables almost as huge and grand as the chateau.
Unfortunately, records reveal that he came back as Black Beauty and had a pretty rugged time of it in the coalmines in England. Oh well, karma et al. (another Sue comment - she really does have a black sense of humour)
The road into the property is along a cobblestone surface. Saw several cyclists riding thru the grounds, which Sue thought were obviously training for next year’s Paris to Roubaix. In fact the start at Compiegne is not that far away in this region known as Picardie.
Chantilly itself was very quiet and when we got on the A1 for the trip to Chartres we found out where everyone was. It was the first day of a long weekend. May 8 is VE Day, and everyone was heading off for a break. Unfortunately they all seemed to be going the way of Chartres. It was a long, slow and sweaty palmed trip until we got away from the outskirts of Paris and onto the lesser populated roads.
We arrived at Chartres mid afternoon in time for a wander up the hill to the cathedral. I’ve been to Notre Dame in Paris and the cathedrals of Poitier & Albi. This was awe inspiring. So many stained glass masterpieces, and intricate carvings of religious figures and scenes.
That night the historic centre was floodlit for a special occasion and the scene from our hotel room showed the cathedral in all its glory.

The next morning we took the opportunity to take in the market and the general shopping area before taking off to our one week stay in the Loire Valley.

We arrived at our 1st one week stay home in the little rural village of Thenay. it’s a very comfortable 4 room stone cottage of 200 years. The place is in close driving distance of most popular Loire Valley sights and very popular with cyclists.
Unpacked the bike and reassembled it today and then the heavens opened up so decided to enjoy the local wine instead.

No Internet Access

2009-05-14T06:08:00.000-07:00

Been difficult to keep up on the blog with out internet access where we are staying but will catch-up by Sunday. Our weeh in the Loire is drawing to a close and the sights have blended into one in that time. The food, the wine the scenery and the rides - magnificent.

Arrival in France - the first 3 days

2009-05-08T09:39:00.000-07:00

Arrived at the airport with bike bag slung over the shoulder and suitcases in tow to book in for the “not looking forward to” 20 plus hour trip in a cramped metal cocoon. While waiting inline I happen to mention to an attendant that it was my wife’s birthday. I noticed he had a conversation with the booking-in clerk and then ushered us over. The clerk told us that our initial pre-booked seating allocation had been changed and I thought Sue was going to explode - that is until she told us that we had been upgraded to Business class. I’ll let her tell the rest of the story.
"Business class is much, much better (as it should be), but in 3-4 hours you realise that the cage may be gilded, but they still won't let you out for 14 hours, and for someone who can't sit through a movie, that's a very long time. As soon as you sit, they offer you either Moet or freshly squeezed orange juice. Nice. They all knew my name, where we were going, and wished me a happy birthday. Great food. We're talking lobster medallions as a starter. All served on Noritake china with good glassware. Served on a white linen tablecloth, one course at a time. Nice. Cattle class to Dubai was MOST DISAPPOINTING! Excuse me.....where's the wine list? What do you mean I have to pay if I want cointreau on ice?
Dubai...Leon bought a heart rate monitor, and I scared the hell out of a fully burqua’d (sp?) woman, when I said bless you when she sneezed. She jumped about a foot! Still, you're meant to say bless you to get rid of the devil aren't you??? And her husband did look pretty nasty. Didn’t disappear though. "
Me back again...............We arrived at CDG airport pretty much knackered and went straight to the airport hotel to sleep off the jetlag. Picked up the Citroen C3 lease car and chucked the bags in the boot and squeezed the big bag in the back seat - all fitted quite well actually. Our first real night was here in Senlis, Town of Royalty and Art.
Great city with very well preserved ancient part of town with Roman Gallic, Gothic and Medieval examples of its 2000 year history.
Senlis was also the location of Gary Moody’s first book “Two Wheels” reviewed earlier in my Blog.
Had to see the Velodrome he wrote about and the team building. Its actually very authentic in the description and the track really is dilapidated. I’d hate to have a fall on the surface - you would really lose some bark.
Off to Chantilly, Chartres today and then to Thenay in the Loire where I can unpack the bike and get some kms in on the French country lanes, so more later.

Do you want to see where I'm off to? Click the 'blue' link "Leon's french trip" below the map

2009-05-07T23:48:00.000-07:00

View Leon's French Trip in a larger map

Holiday begins

2009-05-04T03:55:00.000-07:00

Tonight I finished off work and hopefully every thing is in order for the staff while I'm meandering around France. Sue's (my wife) birthday Tuesday and we leave in the early hours of Wednesday. Have to pack the black beast. Joel Leonard gave me the clue about packing the bike upside down in the bike bag and then packing the undies and socks around it. Sounds sensible unless the bike bag gets lost - I guess I can just "hang out".
See you all in France in two days.

2009-05-03T02:47:00.000-07:00

With just 3 days before Sue and I fly out for Paris, I've finished reading Greg Moody's sequel to Two Wheels, another Cycling Mystery Murder novel. The second of five books takes us through the Tour de France.
The key figure, Will Ross is back as the team lieutenant in the Haven Pharmaceuticals squad. The mystery revolves around an undetected performance enhancing drug that already has caused the death of a Dutch cyclist before the Le Tour. A key figure from the last novel, Inspector Luc Godot, a Columbo clone is now an employee of Haven Pharmaceuticals discovers some truths about the Team Sponsor while Will Ross deals with his isolation from his team members.
There's a romantic interest from Cheryl Crane the team 2IC and the femme fatale Magda Gertz.
Yes I know, It sounds really trashy - and it is!!!
But I really like riding with Will in the spring classics and now the Tour de France. We all fantasize about these races as we ride down Beach Road. Not to be taken seriously, these books need to be read with a light hearted sense of humour.

Good reading

2009-04-28T04:35:00.000-07:00

Not long before we leave on our trip now. I've just finished Greg Moody's book, perfect circles, his second after "Two Wheels". Sub titled "a cycling murder mystery" or "Grisham on Gatorade".

The first novel in a series of five novels, tells of his tales of being contracted into the Haven Pharmaceutical team for the spring classics and then Le Tour. The books can be ordered on the web thru Amazon.

The first book is based on the team's camp in Senlis about 80k north of Paris. It's our second night after we arrive in Paris. I told my wife that its a lovely medieval village with a historical Cathedral. What I didn't tell her is that it has a velodrome that's mentioned in the book. The team camp is based in the Velodrome building.

The main Character Will Ross is a broken down American rider contracted to the team by his ex-wife after the star rider is murdered when his toaster blows up in his face due to some plastic explosives. Yes its a trashy murder mystery but it has some great racing scenes that we can all imagine ourselves in.

Do yourselves a favour and look for the books.

Next blog is when we arrive in Paris and Senlis next Thursday.

change of mind

2009-04-25T03:17:00.000-07:00

Well the old bike was tested today on the regular Bayside Bandido ride on Beach Road. After a 112k ride I decided to drop the gear to a 76". She's lookin' good after a sandblast and a nice covering of satin black powder coating. Not quite sure what a should call her yet. Satan, the black widow or the Stealth.

Last year when I took her to France, when riding the regular training area, a Frenchman made comment to me, saying - nice legs, crap bike (in French of course).

2 weeks to go

2009-04-22T03:24:00.000-07:00

To France on a 81” straight gear

This is our third trip to France – It’s become our Rosebud, hook-up the caravan and off to the beach for the hols.
The first trip took us to the South of France of the Languedoc and Provence areas before scooting off to Italy and then Tuscany, Venice and back to Paris.
Great experience but no bike.
Last May I took my long service leave and my old steel single gear bike back to France. The same bike I finished 20th in the 1983 Warrnambool. It was the first Pro-Am Warny that John Hine from Geelong won. The bike did have a seven-speed cluster back then.
Anyway this second trip took us back to Provence with stays in Arles, a Gallic Roman city and on to Avignon, the city of the Popes when they lost their popularity in Rome.
We stayed for a week in St Remy de Provence where I had the chance to take the bike out of the bag for the first time. The weather was great leading into spring with poppies popping up by the country lanes.
St Remy was the final home to Van Gogh where he painted some of his most memorable masterpieces.
My rides started ay 6.00 am so I could be back home by 8ish to join my wife Sue for breakfast of coffee and croissants. After breakfast it was off to the markets and then taking the leased Citroen to the many small villages in the area.
Late afternoon was spent in our villa courtyard sipping a rose with local cheeses before Sue prepared the meal from the local market produce purchases.
After dinner it was a short walk into the fortified village, into the square for coffee and a desert wine. Bliss on a balmy spring night.
The second week we took off to a little village of St Chinian in the Languedoc region where we stayed the previous year. St Chinian is a cyclist’s heaven with quiet roads, challenging climbs and beautiful villages and scenery.
The local bike shop has a photograph of the owner’s father arm in arm with the Badger, Bernard Hinault.
On a drive through the hilly Cathar region we stopped at a village for another glass of Rose where a whole group of Belgium lycra clad cyclists were enjoying a glass of ale or three when I asked if they would take our photo.
One of the cyclists proudly proclaimed he came from the same village as Tom Boonen. Well, not to be outdone, I just happen to mention that I was from the same village as Stuart O’Grady and Cadel Evans – Oz really is a big village.
The next leg took us through Jalabert territory of Castres and Mazamet to Albi where the Tour passed by the previous year. We stayed at the same hotel as the CSC team stayed. The concierge told me a few tales that I won’t repeat here.
As we travelled further north into the Lot and the Dordogne regions, the morning cycling rides became even more memorable. The village of Le Bugue where we stayed for a week had the perfect old time French bike shop. The owner, surely a past Tour de France contender would casually lean in the doorway of his dilapidated shop smoking his Gitanes and watch the world go by. I wish I could have engaged him in conversation. He would wave each morning as I rode by.
Our next week-long stay was in the Loire, which was the perfect cycling area for a flat-lander trackie like myself.
Chinon was the village where Joan of Arc, a young woman of 18 years convinced the Dauphine of France to grant her an army to defeat the English and regain his crown as the rightful king of France.
Our next leg took us to Normandy where there are more old, big concrete velodromes in one area than anywhere else in France.
While staying in the coastal port of Honfleur at the mouth of the Seine, I probably had one of the cycling experiences of my life.
While descending into a deserted little village I noticed an elderly gentleman sitting on a park bench, cane in hand and beret sitting at the appropriate angle on his head. As I rode towards him, I flashed a wave and a smile and he returned an “Allez, Allez”.
Beat that!
Our final week was in Paris where I met up with an ex-pat Oz who is part of the French legion of the Melbourne Bayside Bandidos.
Riding in Paris peak hour traffic was a little more relaxing following a local. Mind you, I did see several “senior aged” ladies on the typical French ladies bike with a basket of baguettes.
My Paris friend took me to the regularly used parklands used by serious cyclists for training. One of which houses the Jacques Anquetil Velodrome. This was the venue of the Tour de France for several years. Eddy Merckx rode into this Velodrome to record one of his victories.

To say I can’t wait to pack the old straight gear bike for this next trip is an understatement.